Conclave nears, but Vatican hasn’t ordered new cassock for new pope from traditional tailors

(1 May 2025)
RESTRICTION SUMMARY:

ASSOCIATED PRESS
Rome, Italy – 30 April 2025
1. Close of a thimble with a tag in the background reading (Italian) "R. Mancinelli tailor"
2. Close of tailor Raniero Mancinelli’s nephew’s hands cutting fabric with scissors
3. Framed picture showing Raniero Mancinelli and his wife with Pope Francis
4. SOUNDBITE (Italian) Raniero Mancinelli, tailor to various popes and owner of religious garments shop:
++PART OVERLAID BY SHOTS 3, 5, 6++
"I am doing this on my own to be able to present these cassocks for the next pope, without knowing who he will be. But we’re making three different sizes so that they will fit anyone, whether they are small, medium, or large."
5. Picture showing Mancinelli and his wife with Pope Benedict XVI
6. Various of Mancinelli trying on the white cassock he’s sewing
7. Tilt up from the white cassock to Mancinelli holding and showing it
8. SOUNDBITE (Italian) Raniero Mancinelli, tailor to various popes and owner of religious garments shop:
++PART OVERLAID BY SHOTS 7 & 9++
"It’s a mystery, no one knows who it will be (the next pope), let’s hope it’s a friend of mine. A cardinal I’ve already served, I’ve served several, I have a relationship with several cardinals. I’ve made red cassocks and I hope to make some white ones."
9. Various of "zucchetto" hats (white for popes, red for cardinals, purple for bishops and black for ordinary priests)
10. Wide of Gammarelli tailor shop exterior
11. Close of white papal "zucchetto" hat being shown in the shop window together with a miniature of a Swiss guard
12. SOUNDBITE (Italian) Lorenzo Gammarelli, 6th generation representative of the Gammarelli tailor shop:
++PART OVERLAID BY SHOTS 11, 13, 14, 15++
"The reason (why we will not be making the new pope’s cassock) is something I will not speculate on because it is obviously not up to us. We are happy to do what is asked of us and we are available, but we will stop there. Obviously we are a little sorry, because in the sadness caused by the death of the Holy Father, we still would have the beautiful thing of having to make the trousseau for the new one. Not this time."
13. Various of tailor shop’s 6th generation manager, Lorenzo Gammarelli, working in his shop
14. Close of tailor cutting fabric with scissors
15. Pan left of popes’ portraits served by the Gammarelli tailor shop, from Pius XI to Pope Francis
STORYLINE:
The conclave that begins next week to elect a successor for Pope Francis is the first in over 46 years for which the Vatican has not ordered new cassocks for the new head of the church – at least from the two best-known papal tailors.

Normally, the Vatican orders three cassocks for the new leader of the 1.4 billion-strong Catholic Church: One small, one medium and one large, to cover all possible heights and girths.

However, the fact that the order hasn’t arrived isn’t stopping Ranieri Mancinelli, who opened his ecclesiastical tailoring shop near the Vatican in the 1960s.

He is making three simple white cassocks in Pope Francis’ unadorned style – just in case.

The Gammarelli ecclesiastical tailor near the Pantheon has a paper trail showing that it received cassock orders for every conclave since the beginning of the 20th century – and probably much longer.

Gammarelli has been making garments for priests, bishops and cardinals since the 1798.

The last time no order arrived was October 1978, when a conclave was held to elect a successor to Pope John Paul I who died after 33 days as pontiff, according to Lorenzo Gammarelli, who represents the sixth generation to run the business.

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